4882 North Clark Street; 773-878-4882

CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN [$$]

It’s across from a cemetery. That’s the first thing you notice about Giuseppe Scurato’s tidy little storefront. Next is the giant ceres’ painted on the dining room wall—you know, in case you were looking for the neighborhood thrift store. Uptown may be an unlikely location for the supremely talented Scurato, but Lord knows how long he could afford to sell his flawless lamb shank for $18 in River North. Every affordable dish coming out of the kitchen at Ceres’ drips with creativity, from pecorino-sprinkled gnocchi with Gunthorp Farms rabbit confit, arugula pesto, and pine nuts ($9) to an oozy chocolate soufflé tart with tangerine compote and candied pecans ($5) by Leticia Zenteno, the pastry chef. If you think Uptown is dead, think again.

TIP: Zenteno sprinkles Rice Krispies on her scrumptious rice pudding. Best use of cereal ever.

PRICE KEY: ¢ $10 to $19  $ $20 to $29   $$ $30 to $39  $$$ $40 to $49   $$$$ $50-plus
[Cost per person for dinner, excluding wine, tax, or tip]