2239 North Clybourn Avenue; 773-880-8012

JAPANESE [$$]

“There is no crabmeat in the river crabs,” said our savvy waiter. “They are a textural experience. You need to know that before you commit.” There is actually a scant amount, but it still sounds risky—until you realize the talented Chan family (brothers Macku and Kaze and cousin Hari, all of the recently shuttered Kaze Sushi) own the place. Macku’s carrot soup, spiked with shichimi, has a loyal following, but Kaze’s signature nigiri are positively legendary. And rightly so. You won’t find flavor bombs like kani (crab, fried avocado, sea urchins), ika (baby squid, spicy tobiko purée, basil), and nama sake (salmon, enoki, truffle oil, chives) anywhere else in town. As for the river crabs, if you like the idea of curry-dipped crunchy tidbits, they are a no-brainer.

TIP: Stash your car around the corner on Greenview Avenue: no parking meters.

PRICE KEY: ¢ $10 to $19  $ $20 to $29   $$ $30 to $39  $$$ $40 to $49   $$$$ $50-plus
[Cost per person for dinner, excluding wine, tax, or tip]