Venture just beyond the West Loop’s Restaurant Row to the quiet corner of Fulton Market and Racine Avenue. The aromas of blistered dough and garlic will beckon you inside this unassuming storefront. Yes, there is pizza here. The formidable wood-fired oven, visible from any table in the room, offers further proof.

Individual Neapolitan-style pies ($8 to $14) take “housemade” to a new level—from the ricotta and whole milk mozzarella that make up half of the quattro formaggi (plus Parmesan and fontina, $10) to the piquant pork sausage that tops the Fuoco, along with tangy tomato sauce and a slick of hot pepper oil ($12). Everything is evenly distributed on crisp, cobwebby (and obviously from scratch) crust.

The same dough forms substantial sandwich pockets that hold capocollo, mortadella, soppressata, mozzarella, mustard, and mayo ($8) or slabs of sweet roasted zucchini, red pepper, and eggplant with roasted cherry tomatoes, fresh basil, and garlic ($6.50). Go for the lunch special, when a sandwich and a soft drink will set you back just $5.75.

1154 W. Fulton Market, 312-226-6898