Zeppo’s Meatball Achievement
Tempesta Market
As good as the meatballs are, the real achievement here is the way the creamy pesto stands up to the muscular marinara. $12. 1372 W. Grand Ave., West Town
Pesto gnocchi
RPM Italian
Ramps (used in early spring as the green base in the sauce) and aged goat cheese give the pesto for these sturdy yet light potato gnocchi a rich, oniony depth. $16. 52 W. Illinois St., Near North Side
Herbed potatoes with arugula pesto
Anteprima
This beloved neighborhood restaurant swapped the traditional basil for arugula, lending the sauce a peppery bite. $4. 5316 N. Clark St., Andersonville
Ode to Rubirosa
Pizzeria Bebu
Named for an NYC pizzeria famed for its vodka-sauce pies, this homage is dolloped with a vibrant nutless pesto that packs an extra-herbaceous punch. $20. 1521 N. Fremont St., Near North Side
Tagliatelle with pesto and shrimp
Reno
Reno’s version is particularly delicate — with an almost puréed consistency — and yet it holds its own against the rustic, hearty housemade pasta. $12. 2607 N. Milwaukee Ave., Logan Square