Don’t let the inclusion of kid-friendly grape juice in the Concord Grape Julep ($12) fool you: This drink is not playing around.

Beneath the haze of mint and sweet-tart fuchsia juice, there’s a wallop of rye and cognac, resulting in a well-made classic cocktail dressed up just enough to pass as trendy in Logan Square.

That’s true of Spilt Milk itself, too. It’s got all the trappings of a cool-kid-approved bar (pressed-tin ceiling, bearded bartenders, spiked soft serve). But it has achieved its mission of being an old-school corner bar at heart, the kind that pours stiff drinks without fuss. (Though here, there’s definitely a little fuss.)

2758 W. Fullerton Ave.