As scenesters flock to Swift & Sons and guidebook-toting tourists head to Gibsons, this 30-year-old tri-level charmer remains the real deal. The rest of the city’s old guard seem to have thrown in the towel on service and quality, but the servers and the food here sparkle. The crisp Caesar and gooey truffle mac and cheese—which will restore your faith in that played-out side—prove there are no cobwebs in the kitchen. The steaks? As they should be. Take the bone-in filet (below): It oozes flavor and doesn’t rely on sauces or sexy environs to delight.

Tip:Though servers may push the Mishima, the standard dry-aged is every bit as tasty as the Japanese beef—and easier on the wallet.