Ostensibly, you’re going to Prime & Provisions for a steak, but the first thing on your mind will be the bacon. You’ll hear about it from the affable bartender as he makes your premeal daiquiri. You’ll get an earful about it from your sharp server. And you’ll probably hear moans of pleasure induced by it from the next table over. It’s a feat of pork cookery—one thick slice of broiled applewood-cured belly drizzled with maple and chocolate syrups—that is both worth the adulation and emblematic of what this cushy Loop spot does best: swaggering, meaty indulgence. The steaks hardly play second fiddle, however (the bone-in rib eye is shown above, with a side of purple cauliflower). They arrive sizzling and well crusted, thanks to a coating of butter at the end of cooking.

Tip:Look for the zebra-print booths: They’re an homage to Booth One, the Pump Room’s famed table for VIPs.