Marisol Espinoza, an alumna of the French Pastry School, makes many easy-to-love baked goods, from cupcakes to flaky “cruffins” with fruit and sweet cheese. But her talent shines when she combines her Mexican heritage with French technique to create one-of-a-kind breads and pastries. One day she may have a crumbly scone ($3) packed with corn, cactus, and Cotija cheese. Sugar-glazed and prickly with salt, it sits on the knife-edge between sweet and savory. Another day you may score a baguette-like birote ($4) dusted with black specks of sal de gusano, or worm salt. It tastes like a smoky, piney spice you’ve never had before.

Espinoza and her sister, Lizette, opened the bakery in July, after months of construction setbacks. The space, warm and rustic, has several tables, so come for breakfast and have a chorizo-egg sandwich with queso fresco ($6) served on a croissant or crusty house bread. Lunch sandwiches — piled high with avocado, cheese, and veggies in the manner of great tortas — range from mango ham ($7) to chipotle chicken–pesto ($7). Sip a tres leches iced coffee ($3) and survey the pastry case for all the treats you’ll want to take home.