Greek food has had a renaissance in Chicago, with new restaurants offering high-end takes. But Kala Modern Greek, vibrant and airy with white and teal tiles, is more about street food, with most of its exceptional dishes coming off the grill.

Most casual Greek spots in town are all about gyros, and while Kala does have one, souvlaki is the focus here: Charred skewers ranging from shrimp to plant-based meatballs are available in a sandwich, rice bowl, or salad. The traditional pork ($11.75) is basted with a punchy combo of lemon, olive oil, and herbs; the cubes come out tender and golden with grilled lemons to squeeze on top. Don’t underestimate the mushroom souvlaki ($10.25). Juicy and meaty, it’s just one of the standout veggie dishes. And you must try the kolokythokeftedes, discs of crisp and creamy breaded zucchini that can be ordered as an app with feta, dill, lemon, and bright garlic sauce ($9.75) or tucked into a pita ($10.50). You’re vegan? Sub plant-based feta into nearly any dish.

The menu’s biggest revelation, though, is the Greek burger ($13.25). A double cheeseburger made with Slagel Family Farm beef patties, it comes on a toasted sesame seed bun with baked feta, pickled onion, shredded romaine, and “granch” yogurt, a tangy Greek ranch. It’s a delicious twist on the classic, and I’m ready to name it the most underrated burger in town.