To longtime Chicagoans, the mention of Maxwell Street triggers visions of Polish sausage and bone-in pork chop sandwiches. But a new wave of restaurants has set up shop on the historic street, including the city’s only Egyptian spot, which moved here last year after a stint in Lincoln Park. Run by Mohammed Saleh and his father, Ahmed, who moved to Chicago in 1990, Cairo Kebab is the family’s second restaurant: Ahmed and his brother ran Oak Park’s King Tut Oasis for 15 years.
Egyptian food is influenced by the Ottoman Empire, Lebanon, and Syria, which is apparent on this deep menu. You’ll find hummus, falafel, and kebabs, but zoom in on two beloved offerings. Koshary ($16), a spicy, carby national dish, is a mix of pasta, fried rice, vermicelli, lentils, and chickpeas in a garlicky tomato sauce. The koshary is topped with crispy fried onions, and you can add shawarma, which is worth the $6 upcharge. Doctor it up with two great sauces: tangy garlic vinegar and spicy tomato-based shatta.
The other Egyptian favorite, hawawshi ($12), is a street food consisting of a pita stuffed with ground beef, onions, jalapeños, and allspice. It’s all steamed together, making it like Egypt’s take on a slider. A satisfying meaty dish, it’s right at home on Maxwell Street.