This constantly thronged storefront, which started as a stall in a basement food court, has plans to open a sister Loop lunch counter by the end of 2019, expanding an empire built on diminutive dumplings. There’s no secret to these one-inch wonders beyond careful craftsmanship: fatty ground pork blended with cabbage to create a juicy filling for the almost-translucent skins, each folded to order and seared to a lacy crispness, creating the ideal ratio of softness to crunch.