“Americans, they learned what is espresso from Starbucks,” says Domenico Piscioneri, a partner at Ge Pa De Caffè (60 E. Adams St., 312-332-2200). “They say it should be highly concentrated.”

Piscioneri says for Italian customers, the espresso spends 17 seconds in the machine, producing more of the foamy layer called crema suspended above the liquid. “Italians want to see the sugar you put on top,” he says. For an American customer, the espresso comes in 19 seconds.

Open since late July, the café also serves gelato, panini, and desserts—the three words extracted two letters at a time to produce the café’s name. The counter-service spot also has a coffee bar for standing sippers. “[Piscioneri] doesn’t understand why people are running to work, rushing rushing rushing and not standing around and chatting and enjoying their espresso,” says Linda Seiler, a partner.

If you haven’t already guessed, Piscioneri is a native Italian. “I am from Calabria, where the sun and beach are brothers in our life,” he says.