Tonight in a first-ever joint ceremony in New York, the Michelin Guide announced the recipients of its influential restaurant awards for three North American markets — Chicago, New York, and Washington, D.C. While chefs from all three cities came home with shiny new stars, the evening’s biggest prize of all went to Chicago’s Smyth.
The West Loop tasting menu destination earned Michelin’s highest award of three stars, making it one of only 13 restaurants in the U.S., including Chicago’s Alinea, and one of only 139 in the world. According to Michelin’s terminology, which dates to the time the guide was established as a resource for French motorists searching out the best roadside eats, a three-star restaurant is vaut le voyage or “worth the trip,” i.e., a destination unto itself.
In citing the work of chefs John Shields and Karen Urie Shields, the inspectors complimented their creative ways with seasonal produce and noted, “Their cooking is bold and often pushes boundaries.”
John Shields was the only recipient given a moment to speak at the ceremony, and he modestly invited people to “come see if we deserve this.”
“I’m literally in tears,” said Chris Gerber, general manager at Smyth. “I’m so overwhelmed. I’m so proud of him (Shields) and I’m so proud of the teams we’ve had past and present.”
Two more Chicago restaurants earned Michelin’s red stars, which denote overall excellence, as well. Indienne, the River North restaurant where chef Sujan Sarkar prepares a luxurious tasting menu steeped in Indian flavors and foodways, earned one star, as did Atelier, the Lincoln Square tasting menu spot that replaced Elizabeth. Atelier’s chef Christian Hunter, who paints with a broad palette and references eclectic culinary traditions in his food, also got the Young Chef Award, a special commendation.
“Now the hard work starts,” Hunter said.
Other commendations included the Exceptional Cocktails Award for Monica Casillas-Rios of Elske, the Sommelier Award to Alex Ring of Sepia, and the Outstanding Service Award to Josh Perlman of Giant.
Finally, Michelin handed out its newest designation, a Green Star, to Daisies in Logan Square. This award goes to restaurants “at the forefront of the industry when it comes to their sustainable practices.” They cited chef/owner Joe Frillman’s efforts at waste reduction and the close, symbiotic relationship the restaurant has with Frillman Farms, owned and operated by his brother.
“It’s been 11 years that my brother Tim and I have been working together to get to this point,” Frillman said. “We’ve always had it in our minds. I thought about a better way of doing things.”