For a place that presents itself as a rocking take on a cava bar, Bom Bolla (1501 N. Milwaukee Ave., Wicker Park, 773-698-6601) is surprisingly sedate. Bubbly beverages flow freely. The stools are occupied by chilled-out couples. The Joy Division tunes are played at a reasonable volume. In all, it's an excellent way to acquaint yourself with a very Spanish style of revelry.

Spain's version of sparkling wine isn't the drink menu's only draw. This is also a spot that celebrates vermouth, with quite a few kinds of the fortified wine on hand to drink straight from the bottle (or the tap). And they even get into the gin and tonic, a cocktail enjoying quite the renaissance across the ocean, with housemade sodas to mix with several different kinds of gin.

Here's what all we saw when we stopped in.