The buzz never dies down at this corner tavern, where the cooking is hyperseasonal, wildly creative, and unapologetically heavy. Earthy pasta dishes and protein-packed salads give way to maple-braised pork shank, roasted venison, or—for the less adventurous carnivore—a Slagel Family Farm burger. Vegetarian options are fewer but also well wrought.

Dessert is mandatory, and it includes stunners like tender olive-oil doughnuts nestled in a bowl of almond cream and hazelnut praline. Grab a pre- or post-meal bourbon concoction at Longman’s Off Site Bar, a diminutive garage–turned–watering hole. For a less gluttonous experience, every bit as delicious as dinner, try brunch.

Dishes We Liked:  Dinner: maple-braised pork shank with a sweet potato pie, bacon, applesauce, baby fennel, and maple gastrique ($26); yuzu steam cake with Letherbee gin ice cream, yuzu honey, and passion fruit and date purées ($9). Brunch: housemade granola with yogurt leather (compressed yogurt and fruit), fresh fruit, cereal milk ice cream, and caramel sauce ($7); smoked Scottish salmon Benedict with poached eggs, Thousand Island hollandaise, pickled apple, red onion, BLiS salmon roe, and pumpernickel rye ($16).