By introducing a creative list of American comfort food classics—from crab fritters with lobster-caviar dip to cheese-curd mashed potatoes—chef Kevin Hickey infused the once-staid Four Seasons lounge with a welcome air of playfulness and whimsy. Bone-in rib eyes with blue cheese fondue and a homemade Chicago-style hot dog reinvent the city’s most iconic dishes for the white-tablecloth set, while small plates pull their inspiration from the fields, streams, and campfires of the Midwest. Think sugar snap peas with guanciale, brandade-smeared walleye, and a s’more for dessert. The miso butterscotch milk shake will appeal to ice-cream lovers of all ages.

Dishes We Liked: Urban greens with stinging nettle vinaigrette ($12), country rabbit sausage ($16), sugar snap peas with guanciale and mint butter ($6), cheese-curd mashed potatoes ($6); goat cheese flatbread ($15), housemade Chicago-style hot dog ($14), Wisconsin walleye with crayfish brandade ($25), black walnut carrot cake with carrot sorbet and brittle
($10), miso butterscotch milk shake ($5)